Kitten Care Info
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These guidelines are provided to help care for your new kitten. These hints, plus tender, loving care, will help keep your kitten healthy, playful, and affectionate.
1. Acclimatization
Please remember that this is your kitten’s first time away from the only home it has known, and it will probably be insecure and confused at first. Give the baby time, and don’t expect it to be best friends with you right away. Keep the kitten introduction to other family members and pets quiet and stress-free as possible and, most of all, give it time to become used to the new surroundings. Show the kitten it’s litterbox, food, and water, as soon as you get home, and then be prepared for accidents! However, don’t spank the baby if it misses its litterbox! Rather, pick it up, put it in its box, and gently make digging motions with it’s front paws. Young kittens sometimes forget where their boxes are – this is normal, and will pass quickly. Introduce the kitten to one room at a time, offer encourage and petting, but allow it to procede to others. Try not to startle the kitten, and again, remember that this is a stressful time, which brings us to:
Stress:
You kitten has had three series of kitten vaccinations and is in good health. However, it is not unusual for a new kitten to hide, be skittish, or refuse to eat for a couple of days. He may also get a runny nose or eyes, and/or sneeze some in the first few days after changing environment. Give lots of petting, soft speech, and encouragement, and the first problems should clear up within a few days. The runny nose/sneezing is nothing serious (so long as it isn’t accompanied by a fever and/or diarrhea) and should also clear up within a few days. If it doesn’t, call the breeder or your vet. Be aware that the kitten will probably cry a lot the first couple of nights. Although it is completely weaned, it is used to being around many other cats, and the baby misses mom, littermates, and the smells or "home." It is scared and lonely. As soon as it makes friends with you and your other pet(s) this crying will stop.Other Pets:
If you have other pets, wait until the kitten is settled and comfortable before bringing in other animals, one at a time. Do not leave the kitten alone with the other pet(s) until you are certain they are good friends (this may be several weeks). One good trick we have found is to give all pets (including the new arrival) a bath about 24 hours after bringing the kitten home. This way, everyone smells the same, and will most often accept each other soon after. Be certain to give the "old" pets plenty of attention, in order to keep them from being jealous, and to avoid stirring territorial instincts to strongly. It is always possible that the original pet may not take too kindly to someone new using it’s litterbox/food dish. Be prepared for this by giving the kitten it’s own litterbox and food/water dishes.2: Food-what kind, how much, how often?
Your kitten is completely weaned and has been eating IAMS Kitten dry food, available at all times, and of course, plenty of fresh water. Please introduce the kitten to any new foods gradually (over a 7-10 day period) to avoid upsetting its stomach. New food should be mixed with food the kitten is currently eating, gradually adding more of the new food and less of the old until the kitten is eating the new food exclusively. Treats won’t hurt the kitten’s health so long as they don’t exceed 10% of the diet. When on sale, we by boneless, skinless, chicken breast and boil them in plain water until done, when cool, shred into small pieces. They love it! Fish is not good them, they have found that the Ph in fish is not good for them. If you make a regular habit of giving a treat after you finish eating, the kitten will learn to look forward to it and will not bother you, your family, or your guests, while you eat, but will wait patiently. Contrary to popular belief, cow’s milk is not good for cats, as most cannot digest it properly, and consequsently get diarrhea. We recommend metal or china dishes. Plastic dishes can harbor germs in the surface which can cause a condition known as feline acne. Feline acne is small pimples on the chin, which cause swelling and discomfort, and can be very difficult to clear up.
3: Care-Do’s and Don’ts
Because such potentially fatal feline diseases as Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV), and respiratory viruses, internal and external parasites, not to mention automobiles and other hazards, such as being attacked by another animal to name a few, we beg you not to let your kitten run freely outside. If you choose to ignore this, the chances are good that the kitten will not survive it’s first year. If, however, you keep the kitten inside, or only take it out on a leash (as described below) life expectancy is 12+ years.
Safety:
Before you let your new kitten loose in your home, check for the following safety hazards:* Electrical and phone cords left dangling
* Toilet lids left up (a kitten can easily drown in a toilet bowl)
* Open fire screens
* Reclining chairs (the mechanism of the chair can easily crush a kitten who has crawled inside).
*Hide-away beds (again they can crush a kitten caught in the mechanism).
* Fringe, or any loose trim (kittens have been known to strangle when their heads get twisted in the fringe or in a hole between trim and fabric).
* Dangling drapery or mini blind cords (another invitation to strangulation).
* Accessible garbage (especially any kind of bones – bones can either splinter, and perferate the stomach or intestines or form an intestinal blockage).
* Needles and/or thread; knitting and/or crocheting materials.
* Rubber bands (which can wrap around intestines).
* Plastic wrap (the kitten can eat it, strangle on it, or suffocate in it).
* Plastic bags
* Styrofoam (especially packaging "peanuts") which the kitten may eat.
* Cigarettes (yes, they will eat them)!!
* Yarn toys (if they come unraveled, they can wrap around the intestines or block them).
* Toys with easily removed and swallowed parts.
* Cellophane (it turns glassy in the stomach and can cause internal lacerations.
* Open refrigerators, dishwashers, microwave, ovens, washers, dryers – always check!
* Put away feathers and toys attached to string (such a kitty teasers) after use. Kittens and cats will often eat feather and swallow string.
* Keep your workshop off limits. Cats will jump at moving objects such as drills and power saws. They may also swallow screws, nails, wire, and other small parts.
Kittens like to taste everything. Keep all cleaning products and other chemicals (lighter fluid, furniture polish, etc) stored away and out of reach. Anything with phenyl (check the label) is deadly to cats (this includes Lysol). Cats love to drink out of toilet bowls, it’s wise not to use anything in your toilet or make sure the lid is down at all times (except some cats have been known to raise toilet lids. The best disinfectant to use is: 1 part bleach to 30 parts water). Remember, a cat will lick its paws, so be careful what you use on your floors.
4: Training
Contrary to widespread belief, cats are trainable by proper methods: Rewards and tangible, but removed punishment (see "squirt bottle method" below). Be firm and patient with your kitten. By teaching it the house rules now, you can avoid future behavioral problems. Actions that are cute in a kitten may not seem so cute in an adult (such as nursing on your arm, or sitting on the dining room table, or counter top in the kitchen). If the kitten scratches it’s claws where it should not, say "NO," take it to the scratching post and gently make scratching motions with its feet. Kittens respond well to a firm voice and patience. They are naturally fastidious, and want to behave.
Squirt Bottle Method:
Behavior problems that don’t respond the "NO" can usually be modified by giving the kitten a quick shot from a spray bottle. This method removes you from the punishment in the kitten’s mind, which is desirable for two reasons: The kitten does not begin to fear you as the source or punishment (as it would if you spank! Please do not spank!) it thinks the water an "Act of God," and will refrain from the undesirable behavior even if you are not around. (A similar method works from keeping your kitten from running outdoors: Stand, outside, hose in hand, door open, and spray the kitten when it steps outside, after a few times, the kitten will decide that there’s nothing out there it wanted anyway). It is best to never let you kitten get used to the outdoors in the first place, because then they usually do not have the desire to go running out the door.Play – When, How long, What Kind:
Kittens and adult Maine Coons like to play. Generally the morning or evening (following afternoon naps) is the best time if you want an enthusiastic response, especially in an adult cat. We try to discourage rough play as this can make the kitten aggressive. DO NOT roll the kitten over, grab it, and vigorously rub their stomach. This will also make the kitten become aggressive. When you play with the kitten always use a toy, do not use your hands or feet as a toy. Imagine an adult Maine Coon attacking your feet and hands! Soft toys with no easy to remove/easy to swallow pieces are good; pom pom or tinsel balls, catnip bags, furry mice and feather teasers are all good choices. With these you can have the kitten fetch, chase, pounce, and jump, which is all good exercise for the kitten. (If you are using a teaser, do not leave the kitten unattended with them; the kitten may ingest the feathers or tinsel or get poked in mouth or eye with the stick). Remember that what your kitten needs most is your time and attention. Especially if it is left alone during the day, it will be very glad to see you and will be very demanding of your attention! Please remember that kittens are sensitive, living creatures, and do not allow your children, friends, or other pets to manhandle this baby. One sure way to guarantee an unsatisfactory pet is to mistreat it, even if inadvertently. On the other hand, plenty of attention, love, and considerate play will result in a companion that will give you years of pleasure!General Notes:
Booster shots will not be required until one year from the kitten’s last shot. We do not recommend the FeLV or the FIP vaccine. But if your vet advises giving your kitten the FeLV vaccine, be aware that having the FeLV vaccine series does NOT guarantee that the kitten will be immune to FeLV, and you must be just as careful about exposing the kitten to a possibly FeLV-positive cat as you would be if the shots had not been given.Cats do love certain scents. One of their favorites is antifreeze, which will kill them very quickly. If your kitten should get into antifreeze and you discover it in time, run to the nearest vet or emergency clinic.
Following is a list of plants that are in some degree poisonous to cats: Anemone, black cherry, bloodroot, buttercup, caladium, castor bean, elemadis, crocus cycads, daphne (splurge laurel), delphinium, dicentra (bleeding heart), dieffenbachia, elephants ear, English ivory, foxpulpit, jerusalum cherry, jimson weed, lantana (red sage), larkspur, lily-of-the-valley, mistletoe, morning glory, mountain laurel, oleander, philodendren, Poinciana (bird of paradise), poison ivy, poison oak, pokeweed, rhododendron, solandra (trumpet flower), star of Bethlehem (snow drop), sweet pea, thornapple, wisteria, and yew.
Collars and Leashes:
If you use a collar on your kitten, check it daily to be sure it is not becoming too tight as the kitten grows. However, a kitten can catch its lower jaw in a too-loose collar. A breakaway collar is the best choice, as it will separate if it becomes caught on something. If you train your kitten to use a leash, use a harness designed for cats – not a collar. Remember that harnesses are not totally secure, and a cat wearing a harness or a leash should NEVER be left unsupervised. The cat can slip out of the harness or strangle itself. Never walk a leashed cat near a roadway or busy sidewalk unless you are sure that the cat is very calm. The noise and motion of cars, people, other animals, etc, can cause a cat to panic, slip out of the harness, and dash into danger. The best place for your leashed cat is in your own quiet backyard with you.Traveling:
When you take your cat in the car always put it in a carrier. A cat or kitten roaming around the car is dangerous for you and your cat. When you go to the vet make sure you use a carrier to take the cat into the clinic. It helps keep the cat from getting away from you in a stressful situation and protects the cat from other animals. Put a towel or pad in the bottom of the carrier and cover the carrier in cold weather. It is a good idea to have paper towels in your car in case there is an accident.Grooming:
Maine Coons coats are easy to maintain. A weekly combing with a steel-tooth comb that has wide teeth on one end and narrow teeth on the other is all that is generally necessary. However, you may have to comb your cat more often in the spring and fall, which may be seasons of heavy shedding. Pay particular attention to the areas behind and around the ears, the ruff, flanks, britches, and under the front legs. These are the areas where mats most readily form. Very important: Please handle, bathe, clip nails, and groom your kitten regularly so it becomes second nature to them. It will make these things much easier to do when the kitten is an adult.If you wish to keep your cat looking like a champion, a bath once a month with a good shampoo, plenty of rinsing, blow drying, and combing afterwards is recommended. Show Bath: If the cat is oily/greasy, usually behind the ears, the ruff, the underside and tail, work GOOP (the hand cleaner) into the greasy areas on a dry coat. It helps to warm the GOOP in the microwave for 15-20 seconds to make it lukewarm and easier to massage into the coat. It helps to wrap the cat in a towel and hold for 5 to 10 minutes. In one side of the sink make a mixture of warm water, Woolite, and Dawn. It works best to put the cat in the empty side of the sink. Rinse out the areas where the GOOP was applied then pour the water/woolite/dawn water of the whole kitty (except for head). Soap the cat using the Dawn and then rinse. Then soap the cat a second time with MegaAussie Shampoo and rinse. Rinse, rinse, rinse! Put the stopper in the sink and rinse one more time to be sure all of the soap has been rinsed out the hair. Then using a camp paper towel, clean the kitty’s eyes, nose, and ears. Squeeze out the feet and tail and then towel dry. For blow drying, we put the cat in an empty carrier with a towel in the bottom and either hold the dryer or prop the dryer at least 12 inches away from the carrier until cat is mostly dry. Let the kitten air dry the rest of the way. Once dry comb the coat to remove any knots or tangles. The kitten will not be use to the GOOP procedure, as we have not done this on them (until they are older). We only use GOOP to clean greasy areas before a show.
Congratulations on your new baby and family member!!! You will LOVE your easy-going, yet active, gentle Maine Coon! They are the best!!
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